By Ying-Chun, Wu

What Do I Do If I Have Sensitive And Acne-Prone Skin?

Blackheads and pimples are the common enemy everyone cares about in terms of skincare. People with oily skin have overactive sebum production, clogging pores and accumulating excess keratinocytes. However people with non-oily skin, especially sensitive skin, also deal with acne.

Why do people with sensitive skin also get acne and pimples?

Firstly, there are three main factors which lead to acne: excessive oil production, abnormal keratin metabolism, and acne bacteria.

Does sensitive skin produce a lot of oil?

The reason why the skin is so sensitive stems from the skin barrier being damaged. However, this does not necessarily mean the sensitive skin will produce an excess of oil. Other factors, such as temperature changes, hormone imbalances, deficiency in vitamin B complex or others, can all increase sebum production. Sebum production is associated with male hormones and 5-alpha-reductase is the enzyme that catalyzes the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). When temperature reaches 37 degrees Celsius, 5-α reductase reaches its peak activity. So, during hot summers, everyone experiences an increase in sebum production. Additionally, excessive fats and sugars, deficiency in vitamins, and stress can all contribute to sebum production, triggering acne.

Will sensitive skin have abnormal keratinocyte turnover?

Yes, it can. The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. Its function is to prevent water loss, maintain skin hydration, and protect the skin from external environmental stimuli. There is a close relationship between keratinocyte turnover and dryness. When the skin lacks proper moisture, the stratum corneum layer becomes thicker, impacting its protective abilities. In addition, while keratinocytes continuously undergo turnover and shedding, if the skin becomes excessively dry, keratinocytes can accumulate, leading to a thickening of the stratum corneum, roughness, and dullness. People with sensitive skin usually have smaller pores, making them more susceptible to clogging by dirt or other products. If not properly treated in time and the skin becomes infected and inflamed, this could quickly turn into acne.

Can acne bacteria harm sensitive skin?

As for acne bacteria , a common skin bacteria that breeds in the sebaceous glands and hair follicles of the body and is one of the main causes of acne. The sebaceous glands need to be excreted from the pores to the surface of the skin. Thus, if there is an obstruction of this process, bacteria can easily breed on the skin. This causes acne regardless of whether the skin is sensitive or not. Moreover, when the immune system is compromised, the body’s ability to defend against the bacteria will decrease. In addition, other factors, such as air pollution, climate changes, and personal hygiene all increase susceptibility to bacterial infections.

What do I do if I have sensitive skin and I am experiencing breakouts?

In dermatology clinics, acne ranks among the top five most prevalent skin conditions.Many people continue to experience acne even after their teenage years, into their 20s and 30s. These adults who face challenges with acne tend to also have sensitive skin. This can be largely related to lifestyle changes, such as late-night schedules, increasing work pressures, and inadequate skincare. Sensitive skin prone to acne requires careful attention and care, as opposed to oily skin types.

Cleansing should be gentle and non-irritating

Because sensitive skin has a compromised skin barrier, using certain skin products will likely cause irritation and further damage the skin. Therefore, it is important to choose products that do not contain alcohol and fragrances and gently cleanse the skin. Because keratin buildup also leads to breakouts, it is important to exfoliate regularly. Similarly to choosing a mild cleanser, selecting gentle acids, such as mandelic acid, salicylic acid, and lactobionic acid are the most recommended. Mandelix acid is the best balence between effective exfoliation and non-irritation. Salicylic acid is particularly effective in preventing breakouts.Lactobionic acid can take care of moisturizing and exfoliation, especially suitable for dry and sensitive skin. For skin that is both sensitive and prone to acne, it is not recommended to use physical exfoliating methods, such as scrubs, mud masks, and peeling products, as they are too harsh for the skin.

Proper moisturization can help maintain the balance between oil and water

Firstly, there are three main factors which lead to acne: excessive oil production, abnormal keratin metabolism, and acne bacteria.

Developing good lifestyle habits

Having an abundance of sugar or fat and lack of vitamin B in your diet can cause the skin to become more oily. Additionally, lack of sleep, lack of exercise or an absorbent amount of stress can lower the body’s immunity, giving acne bacteria the ability to fester. Therefore, Sensitive acne-prone skin must be protected diligently.

Types of Acid Serum for Sensitive, Acne-Prone Skin

Mandelic acid

Mandelic acid is a large-molecule fruit acid that sits on top of the skin before slowly penetrating the skin. Therefore, it does not cause irritation like small-molecule, water-soluble fruit acids like glycolic acid. It balances between exfoliation while remaining gentle. As early as the early 20th century, scholars were researching the chemical structure of mandelic acid, which resembles certain antibiotics. Therefore, before it was used in skincare products, it was being used through the medical community as an antibacterial agent to control urinary and oral infections. In the early 21st century, mandelic acid started to become a common ingredient in at-home skin routines. In addition to its exfoliating and pore-refining effects, it also has a significant effect on taming acne.When using mandelic acid on sensitive skin, it is recommended to choose a lower concentration to avoid excessive irritation.

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is also a fat-soluble acid component. It can penetrate deeper into the pores than mandelic acid, making it more effective at dissolving the oil and debris accumulated in the pores. This makes it excellent for improving blackheads and acne. However, the downside is that it can be slightly more irritating than mandelic acid, therefore the concentration added needs to be carefully formulated. The typical concentration percentage in skin care products is 1%-2%. Salicylic acid can easily irritate the eyes, so it is important to avoid the eye area when using it.

Lactobionic acid

“Lactobionic acid” is the third generation of fruit acid. It is less irritating than the first generation of fruit acid, glycolic acid” and has stronger pore-cleansing power than the second generation fruit acid “gluconolactone” Due to its chemical structure containing eight hydroxyl groups. It naturally possesses strong water retention abilities, similar to the skin of an octopus. It can draw water from the air and can moisturize as well as other common ingredients, such as glycerin. When combined with its antioxidant function, it is no wonder how it has become one of the popular ingredients in recent years.

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