by Dr.Jing-Long Zheng

A acid has been recognized by the medical community for its remarkable efficacy in treating acne as early as 1995, becoming the first ingredient approved by the FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration) for anti-aging purposes. More recently, derivatives from Vitamin A, such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl esters have become more popular, but the side effects often cause hesitation. Why is the vitamin A family so popular? And how should one navigate through the tricky purging process? How do you decide on a gentle yet effective 'new' retinol? Here are several common questions compiled below to demystify and clarify skincare guidelines, allowing everyone to easily and confidently enjoy the anti-aging effects of vitamin A.

Q1: A Acid, Retinol has become one of the most discussed and popular main ingredients in the medical skin care industry in recent years. What exactly is Retinol? What magical effects does it have?

A: A Acid, also referred to as retinoic acid or vitamin A, is commonly used to treat acne, especially cystic acne. Vitamin A is so helpful for cystic acne because it promotes a normal metabolism of keratin the shedding of dead keratin cells, reduce the accumulation of keratin in hair follicles, and inhibit the sebum secretion of sebaceous glands, reduce oil production, and has the function of inhibiting inflammatory reactions, so it can treat inflamed acne and reduce the formation of acne. 

However, whether it is applied externally or taken orally, A acid has a strong effect, thus leading to a considerable degree of irritation and side effects if precautions are not taken, so it needs to be prescribed by a doctor before use and cannot be added directly to skin care products.

A: Vitamin A acid cannot be directly added to skin care products. However, the large family of vitamin A, vitamin A esters, retinols, and aldehydes can be used in skin care products. First, they need to undergo an enzymatic oxidation within the cells to be converted into A acid, utilizing their anti-photoaging effects.

Compared to the high irritability of A acid, these ingredients are less irritating and suitable for daily usage. However, because they need to be converted into A acid within human cells, it takes time to see results. Among them, retinaldehyde, which only requires a one-step conversion, yields better results but also higher irritability compared to other ingredients. Additionally, its stability is lower. Balancing effectiveness and stability, while minimizing skin irritation becomes an important challenge for major brands when adding such ingredients.

Q3: It’s been said that using retinol causes peeling and itching, which makes many people apprehensive about trying it. What are the common symptoms during the tolerance period? And how should we deal with it?

A: This comes back to the mechanism of action of A acid itself on the skin, such as promoting the shedding of old keratinocytes and restoring normal turnover of keratinocytes. Therefore, when it comes to optical A acid cream can cause slight sensitivity, tingling, redness, dryness, and flaking at the beginning of use. Although skincare products do not contain A acid, individuals with sensitive or dry skin are more likely to experience these symptoms. Generally, I would recommend starting with areas where sebum secretion is more active, often the T-zone. If there aren’t any reactions, gradually extend its use to other parts of the face. At the same time, it is important to moisturize diligently. After about one to three weeks, the skin develops a tolerance and the symptoms should gradually subside or disappear. If there is severe or persistent redness, swelling, or stinging, stop use immediately and seek medical attention.

A: Considering the anti-aging effects of ingredients, I believe that individuals in their 20s, 30s, and 40s who have concerns about fine lines, uneven skin tone, enlarged pores, and excessive sebum secretion and are starting to see these issues in the skin are the best candidates for products containing these vitamin A.

Q5: In terms of vitamin A, how frequently should I be using it and what are the correct steps of use?

A: In terms of usage, I recommend using it gradually, adjusting frequency, coverage, and concentration. It's suggested to start with the T-zone area. If there is no discomfort, you can apply it to the whole face and even the neck. In addition, use skincare products with moisturizing and soothing ingredients to reduce irritation and dryness during the tolerance-building period. For those with sensitive skin, it is recommended to start with an application every other day or every two days, then switch to daily application after a week or two if there isn’t any discomfort. For first time users, generally starting with low concentration and making adjustments accordingly is ideal.

A: I recommend using it at night. Although retinol doesn’t generally have photosensitivity issues, they produce unstable by-products when exposed to ultraviolet light, potentially irritating or burning the skin. Additionally, It's best to wash your face before going out during the day and apply sunscreen and moisturizer throughout the day. Avoid mixing with other acids or exfoliating products. It is not suitable for healing skin after cosmetic surgery. Women who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning to become pregnant should also avoid these ingredients.

Q7: What do professional dermatologists think about DR.WU’s "Super Retinol" 3A2B formula?

A: As mentioned earlier, Esters, retinol (vitamin A alcohol), and retinal (vitamin A aldehyde) in the vitamin A family need to undergo oxidation to utilize the full extent of the product’s abilities. They have varying different stability, irritation, and intensity. Each has different stability, irritation, and intensity. How to combine them so that the product can be both effective and minimize irritation and discomfort is a test of the adjustment skills of each brand.

Similarly to how we prescribe a combination of short-acting and long-acting medicine in clinical practice, it is important to develop an encompassing treatment. DR.WU’s "Tri-Retinoid Revitalizing Series" is said to cover all bases. It features fast-acting retinaldehyde for quick results, gentle and efficient retinol as the main component, and time-release retinyl esters for a controlled concentration of A acid action. The double-layer vacuum bottle is designed to effectively block air and light to prevent oxidation. The unique carrier coating and oil droplet dispersion technology maintain ingredient stability and penetration. The ingredients also combine niacinamide (B3) and dipotassium glycyrrhizate, along with moisturizing agents like panthenol (B5), hyaluronic acid, and squalane, which reduce skin irritation and dryness during the early testing phases of vitamin A.

In terms of usage, in addition to gradually increasing frequency, you can also start with a lower concentration. You should pick different products according to your needs and skin tolerance. Personally, I recommend consumers who want to incorporate anti-aging benefits into their daily routine to use this product.

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