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by Dr.Ying-Chin Wu

The keys to choosing anti-aging solutions! Dermatologist explains the 10 most popular anti-aging ingredients 

New anti-aging products are coming out each year, and every brand seems to adopt a different concept for anti-aging; so how should we choose to achieve the optimal result? We suggest that you go back to the basics and see which products have the right "ingredients" that work cohesively to improve wrinkles and texture, and which ones target hydration, darkening, and roughness. In the following paragraphs, we will discuss the ingredients, the mechanisms, and the anti-aging effects of popular products to aid you in your journey to looking younger!   

Why does skin age? 

Aging is an inevitable process that everyone will go through, and there are two main causes of aging:

 

Intrinsic aging

This refers to the natural aging process we go through as we grow old and our skin gradually loses its functions. The rate of which is predetermined by genetics and varies from person to person.

Extrinsic aging

External factors such as UV ray, air pollution, lack of sleep, and stress may expose our skin to excess free radicals, which speeds up aging and causes dryness, roughness, darkening, wrinkles, loss of elasticity etc.

 

Out of the two main aging factors, the former is due to happen definitely, whereas the latter is difficult to avoid entirely given our modern lifestyle. Although we can’t "stop the clock," we can still prevent, delay, and repair damages of aging by adopting the correct skincare routines in a consistent manner.

How to choose the most suitable anti-aging solution? 

1. Choose by skin condition

We often hear stories of how dense anti-aging solutions may cause acne to people with oily skin. Anti-aging is not just about moisturization, and products can be formulated to deliver significant anti-aging results while feeling refreshing. Below is a list of recommendations for people with different skin conditions: 


Oily skin

Choose water-based solutions that feel refreshing and contain less grease, such as gel cream or lotion, to avoid putting excess burden on the skin. Consider applying acid-based skincare products to eliminate acne and control oil secretion.

Dry skin
Choose lotion serum, creams or essence oils with higher grease content, and enhance hydration efforts at the same time.

Combination skin
People who have both oily and dry skin should go about skincare separately. Use refreshing solutions in areas where there is excess oil secretion, and apply hydration-based solutions on dry skin such as cheeks and areas around the eye.

Neutral skin

This is the ideal condition where the skin neither dries up nor secretes excess oil. You may choose to maintain your skin at the condition you desire, but do take note that your skin may turn dry and become prone to dehydration with age.

Sensitive skin

You should try to prevent irritation at the root by avoiding skincare solutions that are irritative, overly oily, or contain strong fragrance. Instead, choose products that have fewer complex ingredients without alcohol and are mild to the skin. When trying out a new product, apply a small volume on the jawline first to determine whether you are allergic to it or feel any discomfort. 

Skin condition does not stay constant, but changes with season, environment, age, and personal habits. Be sure to observe your skin regularly and adjust the way you care for it from time to time.

Regardless of the skin condition you have, you should always try to delay the aging process by protecting against excessive sun exposure, avoiding over-cleaning, adopting healthy diet and lifestyle, and maintaining a pleasant mood.

 

2. Combine multiple anti-aging ingredients

There are many factors that contribute directly and indirectly to skin aging, which is why we should not rely on the anti-aging effect of just one ingredient or plant extract. Solutions that contain two or more anti-aging ingredients tend to complement each other and work cohesively to combat aging and restore skin to its ideal state.

Essential knowledge for the age-conscious!

Dermatologist's pick of the 10 best anti-aging ingredients

Peptide

A chain of amino acids that have high skin-affinity and easy to absorb. Effective at strengthening the skin's foundation, smoothing wrinkles, and tightening contour. Different peptides provide different anti-aging effects and work at varying depths of the skin. This is why it is best to choose a multi-peptide complex that combines many advantages in one.

Squalene

A natural lipid found in the human body that is mild and nourishing to the skin. As we age, our skin produces squalene in lower volume and at a lesser quality. Applying squalene keeps the skin hydrated for extended period of time and helps repair the hydrolipidic film, which in turn strengthens the skin's defense against external irritations and prevents wrinkles from dryness.

Plant extract from extreme environments
Plants that live in extreme environments tend to offer excellent potency and reparative properties. Dwarf soapworts from Swiss glacial islands, gentiana venusta from the Himalayas, and red algae from France are popular plant extracts found in boutique brands. Together, they help renew and revitalize the skin from within while lifting and tightening the contour to reverse aged appearance and fatigue.

Glutathione

An antioxidant produced by the human body. When applied onto the skin, it has the ability to neutralize free radicals caused by UV exposure, and indirectly delay the aging process. Glutathione also inhibits tyrosinase, and was commonly used in whitening supplements and cosmetic treatments. As raw materials and production improved in recent years, it is increasingly popular to see the antioxidant being added to whitening skincare solutions. 

Vitamin C

A powerful and naturally occurring antioxidant and vitamin. Studies have demonstrated the vitamin's ability to reduce free radicals, inhibit formation of melanin, and reverse existing melanin. Vitamin C can be applied to the skin in morning and evening times; using it in daytime provides the added benefit of preventing sunburn, which is the rationale behind the popular "C for morning, A for evening" routine. Vitamin C also plays an important role in collagen formation, and is very helpful at preventing aging and improving skin elasticity. Because vitamin C is very unstable and easily degrades under light exposure, many brands would opt for vitamin C derivatives instead, which are relatively stable but carry the same anti-oxidation and whitening properties.  

Hyaluronic acid

Also known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate, it holds 16 times as much moisture compared to collagen and keeps our skin hydrated for extended period of time, which therefore makes it an important hydration factor to the human body. Hyaluronic acid has been widely recognized in the industry as the safest and most skin-friendly hydration ingredient. It helps brighten the skin tone and gives the skin a younger look.

Niacinamide

A mild and non-irritative vitamin B3 derivative that offers many benefits. By strengthening the skin barrier, it improves hydration, relieves redness, and disrupts formation of melanin in the stratum corneum for more brightened skin tone. Niacinamide also corrects widened pores, offers excellent anti-oxidation properties, and promotes collagen formation, making it the all-in-one solution to sensitivity, loss of elasticity, dullness, and roughness.

Ceramide

A substance commonly found in intercellular lipids; it ensures proper array of cells in the stratum corneum, so that the layer may function as a barrier to prevent loss of moisture and protect against foreign substances. When added to anti-aging solutions, ceramide can help improve dryness-induced aging and fragility.

Resveratrol

A polyphenolic compound developed by plants to protect them against pathogens and UV radiation. It reduces formation of melanin, brightens skin tone, protects against free radical damage from UV ray exposure, delays the aging process, and prevents wrinkles.

Plant-based EGF

EGF is an important factor for skin vitality. Studies have shown EGF's effects in terms of skin repair/renewal, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, skin smoothening, and skin tightening. Plant-based EGF offers even higher potency and purity, and improves skin plumpness. 

Top-10 recommended anti-aging products of the year:

DR.WU ageVersal Multi-peptides Youth Serum 30ml

Inspired by Thermage technology, the product combines 3 potent peptides and 3 rare plant extracts sourced from extreme environments that work cohesively at all levels of the skin to improve wrinkles, elasticity, dryness, roughness, and other problems associated with aging, and quickly restore the skin back to its hydrated, plump, firm and youthful state.

DR.WU ageVersal Extreme Repairing Cream 50ml

For people with dry or mature skin, it is recommended to apply the cream as the final step of anti-aging care, as it locks in nutrients and provides additional hydration effects! Featuring extracts of dwarf soapworts grown on glacial islands of the Swiss Alps, the solution improves repair, defense, and plumpness of the skin while at the same time stabilizes skin condition and boosts skin health. Furthermore, a complex of peptides has been infused to improve wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and roughness and to restore plumpness, suppleness, and glow back to the skin. 

DR.WU Intensive Repairing Serum with Squalane 30ml

The solution is made with ECOCERT-certified squalane extracted from top-grade olives grown in century-old farms in southern France. By applying "Ultra Micro Cold Press Technology," a unique 25-step process, oils are refined and purified to create a lighter texture that quickly penetrates skin without blocking pores or causing stickiness or acne. DR.WU has also added 3 precious essence oils and 3 plant extracts, including argan oil for its reputation as "liquid gold," macadamia nut oil, and jojoba oil for its strong hydration effect, to fully restore the skin's protective barrier while at the same time improve dryness, wrinkles, and roughness for a hydrated, supple and younger-looking skin!  

DR.WU ageVersal Multi-peptides Anti-aging Concentrate 1.5ml*7

This solution in a highly concentrated and highly potent ampoule form is ideal for important appointments as well as routine care. It incorporates 10 peptides at the highest 10% concentration* for total correction of skin problems including aging, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and roughness. The concentrate has been formulated to quickly penetrate skin. Use one bottle a day continuously for 7 days as an intensive repair program for tightening, wrinkle reduction, and elasticity recovery effects. 

DR.WU ageVersal Advanced Repairing Eye Cream 15ml

Featuring extracts of dwarf soapworts grown on glacial islands of the Swiss Alps, the solution improves repair, defense, and plumpness of the skin while at the same time stabilizes skin condition and boosts skin health. Furthermore, a complex of peptides has been infused to improve wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and roughness. The introduction of revolutionary 3D eye-lifting technology targets wrinkles around the eye and repairs facial outline. The product's light and smooth texture allows fast absorption to quickly relieve fatigue around the eyes, lighten dark circles, and restore glow to the eyes.

DR.WU Intensive Hydrating Serum 30ml

Combining patented hyaluronic acids from Japan, Germany, and France, the serum promotes moisture circulation and retention to keep the skin hydrated for extended period of time. The addition of CERAMELA and active yeast extract helps repair skin barrier to extend hydration effect even longer.

DR.WU UV Hydrating Lotion 35ml

A sunscreen offering high SPF rating and pleasant watery texture that leaves a refreshing sensation without white residue. Furthermore, the addition of hydrating ingredients such as NASHA-grade hyaluronic acid, combined ceramide, and Moist 24 delays the dry discomfort from sun exposure.

DR.WU UV Protect Mineral Lotion 35ml

An all-physical sunscreen developed specifically for children and people with sensitive skin. Infused with cica extract, glycoin extract, and a reparative agent called niacinamide to help counter UV ray and aging at the same time.

MC-Resveratrol 3% Ectoin 0.5% 15ml

Micro-capsuled high-potency resveratrol that helps block UV ray and brighten skin tone. The addition of protective factor called Ectoin strengthens the skin's defenses and delays aging from within.

EGP 1.5% Placenta 1% 15ml

The solution contains a highly potent plant-based ingredient called EGF that promotes elasticity of the skin to correct roughness and unevenness. The addition of plant-based placentin stimulates repair to quickly restore suppleness to the skin.

台灣醫學美容教父 - 吳英俊 教授

Profile

  • 台大醫院皮膚科臨床教授
  • 英爵聯合診所院長
  • DR.WU品牌創始人
  • 法國國家醫學研究中心研究員
  • 台灣皮膚科醫學會理事長
  • 皮膚科學發展基金會董事長
  • 醫用雷射學會常務理事

 

 

Skills

  • 皮膚免疫學(異位性皮膚炎)
  • 雷射治療(色素斑、痘疤、回春)
  • 注射美容(肉毒桿菌素、玻尿酸注射)
  • 醫學美容(美白微雕導入)

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