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By Dr. Ying-Chun Wu
When it comes to essential oils, beauty oils, and skincare oils, what are the most important considerations? We often hear common claims, such as “Use oil to care for the skin." “ 1 bottle has the power of 10." “Korean girls’ secret weapon for glowy skin." “magic tool for creating plump, dewy skin." With these claims, it’s easy to see why oil-based skincare has become increasingly popular over the years. According to the Mintel Global New Product Database (GNPD) survey, from 2017 to 2021, even with disruptions from the pandemic, the number of new oil-based beauty and skincare products launched globally continued to grow, highlighting the ongoing essential oil skin care trend.
Which skin types are suitable for using skincare/ facial oils?
Except for those with excessively oily skin and acne prone skin, virtually all skin types–dry, combination, sensitive, and oily–can all benefit from using facial oils. The key is to choose the proper texture, type, and controlling the amount and timing of use. In fact, replenishing oils is just as important as replenishing moisture to the skin barrier. Most people know that oily skin tends to age more slowly due to its thicker lipid barrier providing comprehensive protection for the skin. The lipid barrier refers to the natural protective oil film composed of sweat and sebum covering the outermost layer of the skin. It acts as a natural moisturizer, with 95% being lipids secreted by sebaceous glands, primarily composed of squalene, triglycerides, waxes, and cholesterol, while the remaining 5% consists of intercellular lipids containing ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, and phospholipids.
When the temperature drops or as the skin begins to age, sebum production slows, which compromises the integrity of the lipid barrier, similar to if you forget to apply moisturizer. As a result, the inability for the skin to retain moisture, the skin becomes dry and dull with rough texture. If the dehydration persists without being resolved, fine lines and wrinkles may become permanent and irreversible. Moreover, damage to the lipid barrier weakens the skin’s defense, disrupting the balance of the skins microbial flora, making the skin more susceptible to sensitivity and external irritants. Therefore, individuals prone to an insufficient lipid barrier and those who experience reduced sebum secretion should prioritize lipid-rich skincare products during the colder seasons. As a result, facial oils are becoming the most effective and comprehensive solution for repairing the lipid barrier.
How to choose the best facial oil for your skin? 5 criteria to use when deciding on the best serums and facial oils
1. Lightweight Texture:
In the past oil molecules, because generally having a larger molecular weight, leave a heavy, sticky feel after application, leading to concerns about clogged pores and breakouts. However, modern-day oils are becoming more and more lightweight. In addition to selecting naturally lighter plant oils in their formulations, manufacturers can also refine the oil molecules to make them smaller, allowing them to be better absorbed through the skin. This creates a more lightweight feel upon application, while easing concerns about breakouts.
2. Multi-Ingredient Formulations::
The skin needs a variety of different nutrients, similarly to how the body needs a balanced diet. The nutritional value of single-component facial oils are not comprehensive enough to sufficiently aid the skin. Thus, multi-compound oils with ingredients, such as omega 3, 6, 9 fatty acids, vitamins, phytosterols, and other nourishing ingredients are essential. In addition, adding antioxidants, soothing, and defense-supporting ingredients will subsequently slow the aging process. Incorporating other ingredients can help target other concerns as well, such as whitening, dullness, elasticity, and more. DR.WU’s Squalanex Intensive Repairing Oil Serum uses premium organic, plant-based squalene, nourishing oils like argan oil, macadamia oil, and Jojoba oil, and other essential ingredients like brown algae extract, white lupine extract, Dusha Algae extract, Q10, and vitamin A ester. This year’s new “Squalanex Rosehip Revitalizing Oil Serum.” uses organic rosehip oil, Argan Oil, British organic borage oil, and French black bog microalgae extract in addition to the plant-based squalane, providing all of the most essential ingredients for the skin in just one bottle. Moreover, adding antioxidant, soothing, defensive ingredients, or anti-aging, brightening, and other skin-rejuvenating ingredients enhances the value of facial oils.
3. Compatible with Skin:
Not all facial oils are skin-friendly. Squalane is the third most absorbent component within our sebum, with a molecular weight that is about half of that of triglycerides, making it the most skin-friendly oil. Squalane is also able to be absorbed better than most other oils. DR.WU uses highest quality plant-extracted Squalane, which has been refined through a 25-step, cold-pressing technique from France, ensuring it is ultra-lightweight, easily absorbed, and quickly moisturizes the skin without causing acne or feeling heavy or sticky.
4. A Water-less formula::
Skincare products that contain water can easily breed bacteria and become less effective. Waterless formulas reduce the need for preservatives and alcohols that can cause irritation, are less burdensome on the skin, and can help slow down the oxidation and spoilage of oils. DR.WU’s “Squalanex Intensive Repairing Oil Serum” and “Squalanex Rosehip Revitalizing Oil Serum” do not contain water, so using only vitamin E as an antioxidant in their formulas, ensuring a milder and safer application.
5. Free from irritating ingredients :
Skincare products that contain water and rich active ingredients are very attractive to bacteria, forcing manufacturers to use preservatives, antioxidants, and antimicrobial agents. Some preservatives that have been used in the cosmetics industry for many years have gradually been found to have safety concerns, resulting in more and more brands that pay attention to safety have stopped using them. Additionally, ingredients like alcohol, synthetic fragrances, artificial colors, and synthetic esters are often added to enhance the product experience but can cause irritation and increase risks when absorbed by the skin unnecessarily. Therefore, when choosing skin care products, you should try to avoid ingredients that may cause negative skin care effects to reduce the possibility of skin sensitivity and irritation. Especially for essential oil products, compared with other water, lotion, essence and other dosage forms, because the stratum corneum is fat-soluble, it is absorbed faster, so when choosing products, more attention should be paid to safety. DR.WU adheres to the professional insistence developed by dermatologists. Both “Squalanex Intensive Repairing Oil Serum” and “Squalanex Rosehip Revitalizing Oil Serum” facial oils exclude alcohol, artificial fragrances, and 200 other controversial ingredients. The healing fragrance in the product comes from geranium, patchouli, and sweet orange essential oils, so it can be used safely even for sensitive skin.
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